If you thought the most memed skirt of SS22 was reaching peak exposure (no pun intended), AW22 served a ‘tennis whites’ version of ubiquitous cut off micro mini. Fashion fans will be pleased to note the collection marked the return of Miu Miu menswear, absent since 2008, and back with a short shorts and brown leather jacket bang. Other stand out pieces included checked blazers and wool coats, silk underwear peeping out of waistbands and argyle knits. Ballet pumps and school socks were the DIY styling takeaway of the season: Miu Miu’s came in black, white, and pale blue and pink satin.
‘Fashion that entices a reaction,’ read the show notes, and Jonathan Anderson’s collection for Loewe did this from the start. Anderson explored a surrealist world, sculpted 3D-printed fibre tunics contrasted with fluid skirts. Trapeze dresses which, on closer inspection, contained trapped objects; a pair of stilettos; ceramic pots and a child’s car caught within the fabric. Surrealism continued with draped dresses hung from lip breastplates or gathered under balloon bras, while tailored jackets scruffed up at the neck or the chest. For Anderson this was where art meets fashion
Staged at Musee d’Orsay, the first time a fashion show has been held at the museum. Nicolas Ghesquiere dedicated this Louis Vuitton collection to youth and ‘hope for the future, for a better world’. Prints of David Sims 90s photographs of teenage models appeared on sweatshirts and oversized polo shirts. The historical element was brought by Panier pockets and papal peplums and were expertly mixed with the modern to avoid swaying into costume territory. And you heard it here first, ties are back.
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