Hours before Schiaparelli's haute couture show at Paris Fashion Week, American designer Daniel Roseberry opened the doors of the fashion house's workshop overlooking Place Vendôme.
Roseberry revealed the behind-the-scenes story of an exceptional collection that blends childlike imagination, exquisite craftsmanship, and the criminal event that rocked the Louvre Museum months ago, after stolen jewels were transformed into glittering pieces on the display.
French Vanity Fair magazine reported that inside the workshop, Roseberry stood contemplating one of the collection's most striking looks, jokingly saying that "an eight-year-old could have imagined it."
The French magazine noted that the look, which was named "Infanta Terrible," combines a tight black skirt and a skin-colored bodice, adorned with hand-cut flowers made of Spanish cotton lace, while a sculpted tail resembling a scorpion's tail extends from the back, rising smoothly above the model's head.
According to the French magazine, while the scene appears to be straight out of a surrealist painting, it is essentially the culmination of centuries of haute couture traditions. Roseberry explained that this contradiction is the essence of Schiaparelli's "chemistry," which is the ultimate in technical complexity, coupled with a free imagination that is almost innocent.
Beneath the flowers, the piece conceals a metal structure designed by one of the last disciples of the French artist Claude Lalanne, known for his famous sculptural works, in an affirmation of the overlap between art, craft, and fashion.
The designer, who has become one of the most prominent and influential names among millennials and Gen Z, sees this collection as a conscious return to bold extravagance after seasons characterized by discipline and austerity. He said he felt the moment was right "to show off a little," recapturing the joy of playing around in a world increasingly rife with designer changes and major shifts in the fashion industry.
However, what attracted the most attention in this collection was the jewelry. Roseberry redesigned historical pieces from the Schiaparelli archive dating back to the 1930s, 1940s and 1950s, but he went further when he decided, in a sarcastic and bold spirit, to reimagine the jewelry that was stolen from the Louvre Museum last October.
Crowns, necklaces, and ornaments inspired by Empress Eugenie's jewelry, reinterpreted in a more luxurious and three-dimensional contemporary style, transform from crime news material into a symbol of absolute luxury.
Roseberry admits that the idea came to him as he walked home after hearing about the robbery, wondering, "Why don't we reimagine these jewels?" Thus, the "Mroseberry" style pieces were born, preserving the spirit of the original, but reflecting the designer's own signature.
In a morning show at the Petit Ballet museum, singer and actress Teyana Taylor appeared adorned with what has become known as "robbery jewelry," setting social media ablaze once again.
Daniel Roseberry has once again succeeded in transforming a current event and media buzz into an artistic material that finds its natural place in the most prestigious strongholds of luxury, haute couture, where imagination, however daring, becomes an acceptable and even celebrated language.
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