3 key moments in the opening of Milan Fashion Week
With the start of Milan Fashion Week for the upcoming fall/winter season, Fashion Month reaches its third stop, spanning seven days. This week's program features 52 live shows and 89 presentations, including the debut collections from the new creative directors of Fendi, Marni, and Gucci.
- Fendi House Show:
Maria Grazia Chiuri's debut ready-to-wear collection as Fendi's new creative director marked a return home. The designer had previously worked in the house's accessories department between 1988 and 1999, contributing to the design of the iconic Fendi Baguette bag. She returns to Fendi after nine successful years as creative director of Dior, preceded by 17 years at Valentino, including eight years sharing the creative directorship with Pierpaolo Piccioli.
Chiuri's first collection for Fendi was characterized by its sophisticated style and contemporary flair. Her motto, "Less selfish, more collective," adorned the runway, reflecting the collaborative effort required to create a fashion collection.
Chiuri made sure to utilize the house's fur resources to offer nearly identical jackets and coats for women and men, with designs ranging from sporty and practical to luxurious. She succeeded in reshaping Fendi's image, both literally and figuratively, transforming it into a fashion house where individual style serves its collective heritage.
- Antonio Marras's show:
Antonio Marras presented 50 women's and men's looks in its show, each embodying its own unique concept of romance. Roses were the most prominent motif, adorning the set design and the entire playlist, which featured floral themes. They also appeared on clothing, accessories, and even makeup, which expanded the range of floral designs meticulously applied to the models' faces.
A maximal aesthetic dominated most of the looks, which were adorned with diverse prints, a mix of fabrics, embellishments, and embroidery. The opening looks featured shades of blue and burgundy, followed by designs in black and white, gray and khaki, and ivory and black. As for accessories, they ranged from innovative to classic and sporty, particularly the bags and shoes.
Missoni's presentation:
In its upcoming fall/winter collection, Missoni emphasized continuity from season to season, asserting that evolution is gradual and deliberate, based on consistent accumulation rather than seasonal adjustments.
This led creative director Alberto Calleri to delve into the house's archives, drawing inspiration from a 1978 show featuring numerous chunky wool sweaters. This season, he subtly incorporated these sweaters with masculine-cut trousers. Coats were layered over short jackets, and scarves and shawls were worn with deliberate ease, resulting in a generous overall look. The colors remained sophisticated, and even seemingly monochromatic outfits shone with subtle, interwoven hues. In this collection, Missoni sought to deepen its influence, adopting a philosophy of continuity that it considers more attractive than renewal.
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